In 1511 Luther and another monk were sent to Rome to carry out some business of the Augustinian Order, of which they were apart. Luther was given ten gold florins to take care of his needs. The two traveled on foot and found food and lodging in monasteries along the way. Luther was bothered by the luxurious living, the loose morals, and the lack of interest in spiritual things among the monks they visited. Nevertheless, Luther still held high expectations for Rome itself. When the papal capitol first came into view he shouted, “Hail, holy Rome!” as ecstatically as a Jewish pilgrim catching his first glimpse of Jerusalem.

Luther was bothered by the luxurious living, the loose morals, and the lack of interest in spiritual things among the monks they visited

Within the city was a large staircase which was said to come from the house of Pilate. Those who climbed it on their knees were promised an indulgence from one thousand years of penance. Luther, believing the superstition, decided to try the ascent. He had climbed halfway up repeating the usual prayers when these words came to his mind: “The just shall live by faith.” He stood up and walked slowly down the stairs.

But the more Luther saw of the city, the more his reverence for Rome turned to loathing

During his stay in Rome, Luther learned a little Hebrew from a Jewish Rabbi. He also took some Greek lessons from a refugee from Constantinople. But the more Luther saw of the city, the more his reverence for Rome turned to loathing:

The city, which he had greeted as holy, was a sink of iniquity; its very priests were openly infidel, and scoffed at the services they performed; the papal courtiers were men of the most shameless lives; he was accustomed to repeat the Italian proverb, “If there is a hell, Rome is built over it.” [11]

So he went away thoroughly disenchanted with the “holy city,” but the month he spent there counted for much later on. He never forgot what he saw.